Cuzco & Ollantaytambo

Over the course of two weeks, a couple definitions of “we” enjoyed Cuzco as our home base for our various adventures. Colin and I walked around and up to do some acclimating prior to our trek. We chilled for a few days recovering from the trek at the lovely Hostel Kurumi. We shamelessly savoredĀ a couple of meals at Jack’s, an allure for gringos of the American sort looking for tastes of home. On our first visit, I was rather exalted to find homemade hummus, while Colin channeled his inner 12-year-old indulging inĀ french toast and a milkshake…for dinner.

After our return from Chinchero, we greeted our parents at Kurumi. Colin unfortunately was knocked out for a couple of days with a stomach bug, so he laid low while I introduced the ‘rents to both my empanada habit and my wandering style (“hey, that street looks nice, let’s go there”). After missing out on the cooking class I had tried for in Arequipa, we signed up for an evening one in Cuzco. Peruvian Cooking Classes took us on our a tour of San Pedro market and explained the way local people shop. Then we returned to the kitchen to prepare crema de choclo (corn soup), lomo saltado (traditional meat stir fry), arroz con leche (rice pudding), and chicha morada (beverage made from purple corn). The class was intimate and well done. It was all very hands on unlike how some cooking classes end up. Once we finished cooking, we enjoyed the meal together upstairs. While the dishes didn’t knock our sneakers off (as my mom likes to say), they were enjoyable and we had a fun time.

The main family adventure was going to the Sacred Valley for a few days. We rented a car and drove through Pisac and on to Ollantaytambo. In Pisac, we explored the market in town, had a quick lunch, then went off to see the Inca ruins. I, of course, wanted to walk and decided to meet the fam at the ruins. I didn’t quite realize what I got myself into and walked primarily uphill (a seemingly recurring theme), to reach the ruins that are more expansive than I’d imagined. I made guesses at a few forks on which direction to head and eventually found the parking lot, our rental car, and the fam shortly thereafter.

Ollantaytambo was well worth the visit. The town itself is over 700 years old, and not much has changed during that time. The streets are very narrow and not so prepared for cars, though we managed just fine. We visitedĀ the ruins where we opted to hire a local guide. Often hit or miss, our guide proved to be very knowledgeable and friendly. The whole experience felt much more personal as his pride and passion for his hometown was made evident by his energy and eagerness to teach us. At the end, he even gifted each of us a necklace with the Inca cross. That night we went for a somewhat celebratory dinner as it happened to be my birthday. We found what looked like a lively restaurant though we ended up being the only patrons. We had a few extra pisco sours and the waiter even brought me my own party-sized one in honor of the occasion. I don’t think I’ll ever have another birthday like it and was very lucky to have the whole family present in the Sacred Valley. The celebration was pretty wild as I only made it to bed by 9:30.

The next morning, mom and dad left bright and early for their day trip to Machu Picchu, while Colin and I drove the car back to Cuzco. Quite appropriately, Colin and I went for a final meal at Jack’s before Colin was on his way to the airport to head home. The parents and I followed suit the next morning but instead heading to Quito. More on our Ecuadorian adventures to come!

Salkantay Trek, Machu Picchu, & Chinchero

Colin and I lucked out with our Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu. The weather forecast had threatened rain the entire time, but we had only a little the first day as we summited the Salkantay pass (4800m) between glacier peaks. From there it was all downhill. Literally. The first two days were by far the longest and most strenuous with 7-8 hours of walking each. We were rewarded at the end of day two with a visit to some nearby hot springs. The third day was short and flat with just 3 hours of walking to the town of Aguas Calientes, the launching point for Machu Picchu, where we’d have the most of the afternoon and evening to rest.

During the first 2 days, I had persuaded our guide, Herbert, of my tireless spirit and legs, and elicited from him information about a bonus hike that’s free and possible from town. He promised it to be difficult with ladders covering parts of the mountain that are too steep for trails, but I’d be rewarded with a unique view of Machu Picchu. After a quick stop at the hostel, I set off on my own for a couple of hours. I was a little nervous about the ladder being not so fond of heights, but Herbert assured me it wasn’t very long. I soon learned that there wasn’t just one ladder but five, and the longest one was around 100 feet. Once I was on my way, I certainly wasn’t turning back. In just under an hour, up I went to the top of Putucusi (Quechua for “Happy Mountain” according to Herbert and “Squash Mountain” according to an elderly man in town. We agreed on a compromise of “Happy Squash.”), climbing endless stairs and willing myself not to think about the trip down with each ladder I climbed up. The workout was great and I think I actually yelped aloud with glee as I came to the top and saw Machu Picchu for the first time. I enjoyed the view for a bit and made a fairly quick descent, making an effort to look down as little as possible. It was definitely worth it, especially having only seen a handful of people during the whole trip.

The next morning was an especially early wakeup at 4am to hike up the stairs to Machu Picchu. Turns out the site doesn’t open until 6 anyway, so it wasn’t entirely worth it (though another good workout). Once inside we enjoyed a tour of the site from Herbert and then were set loose to explore on our own. Having not signed up early enough to get tickets for Huayna Picchu, Colin and I hiked up to the Sun Gate for that view and then over to the Inca Bridge. After getting our fill, we went for a leisurely lunch back in Agua Calientes and learned how terrible we both are at chess. A few modes of transport later that evening, and we were back in Cuzco for a couple days of relaxation (and just in time for the rain!).

Our next mini adventure was to the town of Chinchero in the Sacred Valley, which was fairly uneventful. The town is small with not a whole lot going on. We stayed at a nice hostel called La Casa de Borro Lodge and Restaurant (where the cutest puppy, Maracino, also lived), visited ruins, ate empanadas, saw traditional weaving, explored a market, ate more empanadas, and bought some alpaca goods.

We made a quick trip of it and were back in Cuzco the next day, this time to greet our next visitors: mom & dad!

Highs and Lows from Bolivia to Peru

From Uyuni, I took a bus to La Paz and continued directly on to Copacabana. As I passed through the city, I was thinking perhaps I should have stayed there for a bit. I’d heard mixed reviews, but to me it looked like a nice place with lots of interesting culture. I could see the naturaleza of which I’d been told – far more “rustic” than my experience in Argentina and Chile. Plus everything in Bolivia is CHEAP. Seriously cheap.

But on I went to Copacabana, a small town on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca, where I caught a ferry to Isla Del Sol in the middle of the lake. Lake Titicaca is the highest elevation navigable lake in the world. Once on the island, I paid my tariff (the first of many) and hiked directly and literally uphill and found a hostel for the night. I was pretty eager for a shower after traveling for 17 hours straight from Uyuni where I’d only had one shower during the tour that was not exactly hot and lacked much water pressure. Sadly, I soon learned I’d have to wait a bit longer for a hot shower and suffered through another cold one. After settling in, I wandered further uphill to explore and find a place for dinner. I decided on a small restaurant facing the other side of the island where I could watch the sunset, then it was early to bed.

I woke early the next morning in time to see the last of the sunrise just outside of my door. I set off early to do the hike around the island starting along the trail on the western shore. I’m not sure if I was up way too early or if there just aren’t that many people doing the hike in a single day, but I hardly saw anyone along the way until I got nearer the northern end. The silence and sense of isolation was very peaceful and welcome for my morning hike. That is until I approached a little building that appeared deserted, paused to take a picture, heard some dogs barking, then realized the barking dogs were running for me. Caught off guard and unsure what to do, I turned to walk on my way thinking they might just leave me alone until I felt something on my calf. I looked down and realized these dogs weren’t kidding. One had actually bit me. Still not knowing what to do I scrambled up a pile of rocks out or reach until the dogs seemed to lose interest and walked away. I climbed down and started to run a bit along the trail only to hear more barking and see the dogs chasing after me again. This time I did not turn my back on them and walked backward, kicking dirt at them until I was far enough from the house that I guess they felt they’d extricated the threat for good. Now I wish I had a picture of the dogs, because mind you, they were not large. I can only imagine what would have happened if they were. I checked my calf and was happy to see that the dog had only torn a whole in my leggings and not drawn any blood. No rabies shots for me!

Just as I had been thinking I wished I had more time in Bolivia, I now suddenly couldn’t wait to leave. After completing the circle of the island, I picked up my stuff and took the ferry back to Copacabana. I had already purchased a bus ticket from there to Puno, the city on the Peru side of Lake Titicaca, though now was hoping to change it and go straight to Arequipa. I arrived at the office with exactly 0 Bolivianos, having spent my last 12 on a banana smoothie on the island. The woman informed me I could change the ticket, so I off I went to the ATM to withdraw some more money. Unfortunately the luck I’d had in La Paz continued and none of my cards worked. Panic ensued, I ran around a lot, and finally she said I could go to Puno and withdraw money there (I figured maybe Bolivian ATMs didn’t like me). Of course that was not the problem and I still could not get money at the Puno bus station. Luckily I ran into the nicest woman who offered to pay my taxi fare to get to her hostel where I could then sort things out. Normally I would not have done this, but it turned out to be quite a nice hostel. The woman even gave me some food and tea that night and let me use the phone to call my bank. Finally, it seemed things were resolved and the next day when I saw cash dispensed from the happy mouth of the ATM I was fully relieved.

Things in Peru were looking up! I was excited to arrive in Arequipa next, having heard several great things about it. I went to a hostel that was recommended and was happy to hear they had space. The owner of the hostel, Jose, truly makes you feel at home. He recommended several things to do in the city and advised me of areas to stay away from. He also spoke to me in Spanish though he knew I spoke English (many people who speak English seem to answer that way, even though I ask in Spanish and am hoping to practice). Arequipa is the first city I’ve visited that I’ve read is known for its food. Obviously, I was pretty excited about that and my days there consisted of eating, visiting markets, and taking pictures around the city.

Goodness, I hardly did anything this week, yet it seems so full of activity, or maybe just anxiety. I’m in Cusco now and very excited to have my first visitor: my brother!!! Tomorrow we set off on a 4-day trek along the Salkantay trail to Machu Picchu!